Monsoon mud, India

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monsoon-mud
We (incorrectly) figured that the small dirt roads to Nepal would be easy cycling.  What we didn’t take into account was the monsoon mud…

Locked in in Rampur, India

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rampur
We knew we were back in India when; we visited the Rampur palace gardens.  After a leisurely tour, we tried to leave the complex and soon found out that the entrance gate was now locked. A local told us that in a couple of hours the caretaker would come along to open the gate.  (note; there wasn’t a sign on the gate that posted “opening hours”.)  So we patiently sat down and watched the unfolding theatre show of stressed out Indian vacationers running around the gardens – trying to hatch up escape plans…

Biycling through the Spiti and Lahaul valleys of North India (1)

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kye-monasterycycling-in-spiti
cycling_spiti-valleydhankar_monastery

Spiti = non-existent traffic, Tibetan villages, spectacular monasteries and momos.

Lahaul & Kinnaur = Greenery, return to India and unfortunately a couple of huge dam complexes that covered the road (and us) in concrete dust.

Heading towards Gramphoo, India

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Cycling north IndiaBetween Keylong and Gramphoo the landscape is verdant green and the super smooth road is usually full of traffic, but not on the day we cycled it!  The Rohtang pass had been blocked for three days and only cyclists had been able to get through.  The western bicyclists we met told of receiving applause and also angry looks as they squeezed by all of the trucks and cars that were stuck in the mud on the Manali side of the Rohtang.

India’s true road king

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road-king-india
Most of the traffic on the Leh-Manali highway is army supply and fuel trucks.  Luckily the road was in bad shape so they had to drive slowly. The friendly chauffeurs (they always waved and cheered us on) drove in “groups” so we would just pull off the road to let them pass.

Camping in Northern India

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Camping in LadakhWhat I enjoyed most on the Leh – Manali highway must have been the beautiful wild campsites.  You can just sit, relax and take in the scenery

On top of Lachlung La

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A quick photo before descending to the next tent camp where coffee, chocolate and Maggi soup awaits.

The tent camp of Pang on the Leh – Manali highway, India

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pang-tent-camp
There are a number of tent camps on the Leh – Manali highway where you can buy food, drink and even overnight in the parachute tents (dormitory style accommodation).  We didn’t sleep in them but another cyclist told us about his attempt at catching shut-eye while a large group of Punjabis were holding an all-night party in the same tent.

We’ve arrived in Leh, India

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We have always dreamed of cycling the Himalayas, but the question was “which region?” The choice fell upon the  Leh – Manali route and we’re psyched to start the trip!